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What Is Flush Setting, Gypsy Setting, Tension Setting, Channel Setting And Invisible Setting For Jewelry_.pptx
The document discusses various jewelry setting techniques including flush, gypsy, tension, channel, and invisible settings, detailing their characteristics, production methods, and applications in jewelry design. Each setting has distinct features, with flush and gypsy settings known for stone prominence, tension settings using metal tension for secure placements, channel settings creating a ribbon effect, and invisible settings hiding metal structures for a seamless look. The content emphasizes the artistry and craftsmanship involved in implementing these techniques in contemporary and high-end jewelry.
What Is Flush Setting, Gypsy Setting, Tension Setting, Channel Setting And Invisible Setting For Jewelry_.pptx
- 1. What Is FlushSetting, Gypsy Setting, Tension Setting, Channel Setting And Invisible Setting For Jewelry? Get entire article, please visit: https://sobling.jewelry/what-is-flush-setting-gypsy-setting-tension-setting-channel-setting-and- invisible-setting/
- 2. CONTETNS 1. Flush Settingand Gypsy Setting Tension Setting Channel Setting 2. 3. Invisible Setting 4.
- 3. 01 Flush Setting andGypsy Setting
- 4. Overview of FlushSetting and Gypsy Setting Flush and gypsy settings are similar in appearance, both featuring sunken positions for stones held by extruded metal, but differ in stone size and jewelry prominence, with gypsy settings being more prominent and flush settings offering a simpler, flat appearance. Flush Setting Ring Gypsy Setting Ring (V&A Museum Collection)
- 5. The Production Methodof Flush Setting Flush setting, or flat setting, features gemstones flush with the metal surface, typically using smaller round brilliance cuts, and is known for its delicate simplicity and seamless wrapping effect around the gemstone. Steps Description 1. Material Preparation Prepare a round brilliance cut gem with specific dimensions and ensure the ring has a preliminary finish. 2. Increase Metal Thickness Ensure metal thickness covers the gem base; add metal pieces or rings if necessary, larger than the gem's diameter. 3. Drilling Drill a hole at the setting position with a 0.8 mm drill bur. 4. Expanding the Setting Position Use ball-shaped or pear-shaped burs to expand the setting position, ensuring close contact with the gemstone's girdle. 5. Fixing the Metal Secure the expanded metal to the ring's stone setting base. 6. Grooving with a 45 Degree Disc Bur Optional step to grind a downward slope for easier metal pressing during setting. 7. Placing the Stone Place the stone parallel to the metal surface using a small flat-headed bur and grease. 8. Observing the Stone Check the stone's position for horizontal alignment and proper depth. 9. Preparing Stone-setting Tools Polish and shape burs for stone setting, then fix them onto a handle. 10. Setting the Stone Use a steel bur to press the metal against the gemstone's waist at a 45-degree angle. 11. Completing the Flush Setting Ring Finish and clean the stone setting edges after the stone is set.
- 6. The Production Methodof Flush Setting Metal and Gem Three methods to increase metal thickness Drilling with a drill bur Expanding the setting position with a ball-shaped bur Cross-section of the setting position Fixing the Metal Grooving with a 45 Degree Hart Bur Cross-section of a 45 Degree Hart Bur Grooving Placing the Stone Observe whether the gem is flat after placing the stone. Correct stone placing, tilted stone placing, setting position too deep, setting position too shallow Style of Flush Setting Bur Tool Setting the Stone Steel Bur Pressing at an Inclined Angle Steel Bur Pressing at a Vertical Angle Completing the Flush Setting Ring
- 7. The Production Methodof Gypsy Setting The Gypsy setting, characterized by its bold and rugged beauty, is often used for larger or irregular gemstones in men's rings and involves fixing the gem by striking, with the metal edges smoothed to give the appearance of the gem being cast into the metal. Steps Description 1. Material Preparation Select an oval-shaped cabochon gemstone and prepare wax with flat surfaces for the ring, adjusting the wax thickness according to the gemstone size. 2. Determining the Position of the Stone Setting Base Outline the gemstone on wax and shrink inward by 1-2mm to mark the setting base support. 3. Carving the Setting Position Penetrate the setting position with a drill bur and carve wax along the marked lines, maintaining a vertical position and consistent depth. 4. Overall Completion of Wax Carving and Casting Carve away excess wax, test the setting position with the gemstone, and cast the wax model into metal, followed by preliminary finishing. 5. Testing the Setting Mount and Cleaning the Setting Position Test the setting position again in the cast metal and adjust if necessary to ensure the gemstone fits flatly. 6. Creating a Groove on the Outer Edge of the Stone Setting Position Use a ball-shaped bur to grind a groove on the metal at the outer edge of the setting position to facilitate pressing the metal. 7. Setting the Stone Secure the gemstone using either a flat-tipped chisel or a curved chisel, pressing the metal around the gemstone with a hammer. 8. Finishing and Completing the Gypsy Setting Polish the metal around the gems, trim the edges of the setting, and complete the production of the Gypsy setting.
- 8. The Production Methodof Gypsy Setting Prepare the casting block Determine the thickness of the wax for the stone setting position Marking the setting position Reference Line Carving the setting position The difference between the bottom surfaces of the stone setting positions of cabochon gemstones and faceted gemstones Cross-section of the gemstone placed in the wax model's setting position Cleaning the setting position Cross-section of the groove position Angle of Flat-tipped Chisel Curved Chisel Chisel Pressing Metal Completing the gypsy setting
- 9. The Application ofFlush Setting and Gypsy Setting in Jewelry Design The flush setting and gypsy setting techniques in jewelry design have evolved to blend with contemporary aesthetics, with flush setting gaining popularity for its minimalist style and flexibility in design, while gypsy setting retains its bold visual feel but often incorporates modern setting methods for practicality. Diamond Ruby Ring (V&A Museum Collection) Alan Craxford's Work Alan Craxford's Work Alan Craxford's Work Larmo brand jewelry Larmo brand jewelry Flush Setting Bracelet Flush Setting Ring Artistic Jewelry
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- 11. Overview of TensionSettings Tension settings is a challenging and creative jewelry setting technique that uses the metal‘s tension to secure gemstones by applying centripetal compressive force to their girdle, offering a provocative visual aesthetic. Encompass three types as below, with the latter two being variations derived from the core principles of tension setting. Tension setting is a gemstone setting technique that uses two metal tension points to secure the stone, with distinct material preparation methods for mass and single-piece production. Semi-tension setting is a method that combines tension setting principles with additional support structures like bases or prongs to simplify production and reduce post- sale risks. Tension setting ring (provided by Dazeng Jewelry Studio) Grid-shaped tension setting arranges four princess-cut gemstones in a square pattern, with only the outer edges pressed by metal, creating an illusion of a single large gemstone and being structurally similar to semi-tension setting. Grid-shaped tension setting ring cufflinks Semi-tension setting ring
- 12. The Production Methodof Tension Settings ① Steps for Making Tension Setting Steps Description 1. Choosing a Gemstone Select high-hardness gemstones like diamonds, rubies, sapphires, or natural zircon, ensuring the gemstone's height is less than the metal's thickness. 2. Preparing Metals Choose high-hardness and durable metals like gold, platinum, or iron alloys, and prepare metal materials for casting or hardening. 3. Hardening Metals Control metal hardness and elasticity through processes like forging, ensuring the metal retains sufficient strength and elasticity for tension setting. 4. Filing the Ring Neatly file the wrought metal ring, accounting for metal loss. 5. Sawing out the Opening Saw an opening in the ring for the gemstone, ensuring the width and depth accommodate the gemstone size and shape. 6. Fixing the Metal Secure the ring to a ring setter for stability during the setting process. 7. Marking the Slot Position Mark the slot positions symmetrically according to the fixed stone's girdle height. 8. Slotting Slot the two parallel surfaces at the opening with a disc bur, ensuring symmetrical slots. 9. Setting the Gemstone Insert the gemstone into the slots and use the ring setter or expander to clamp the ring band around the gemstone. 10. Completing the Tension Setting Finalize the setting and admire the completed tension setting.
- 13. The Production Methodof Tension Settings Preparing Gemstones (Zircon) Preparing Metals (Brass) Forging brass ring Filing the ring Sawing out the opening Fixing the Metal Marking the Slot Position Slotting Schematic of the slotting Gemstone clamped in the slot on one side Gemstone clamped in the slot on both sides Completed Tension Setting
- 14. The Production Methodof Tension Settings ② Steps for Making the Semi-Tension Setting Steps Description 1. Material Preparation Prepare a faceted hollow stone with a diameter of 2 mm and a bezel width of 1.7 mm, ensuring the ring has a support base and raised areas on the metal bezel to secure the gemstone. 2. Slotting Mark the gemstone's girdle and create a shallow slot (0.15 mm deep) on both sides using a thin disc bur. 3. Placing the Stone Insert the gem's girdle into the slot and gently press the other side into place, adjusting the slot depth if necessary. 4. Setting the Stone Temporarily stabilize the gem with oil mud and use a flat-headed chisel and hammer to press down on the raised metal areas, securing the gemstone. 5. Finishing - Edge Trimming Trim the metal cross-section on both sides of the stone setting position where it meets the gem's cut surface using a graver. 6. Finishing - Polishing Remove excess metal and smooth the area with sandpaper rolls and polishing wheels. 7. Completing the Semi-Tension Setting Ring Finalize the semi-tension setting ring, ensuring the gemstone is securely and stably set.
- 15. The Production Methodof Tension Settings Material Preparation Slotting Placing the Stone Setting the Stone Trimming the Edge Finishing Completed semi-tension setting ring
- 16. The Production Methodof Tension Settings ③ Steps for Making Grid-Shaped Tension Setting Steps Description 1. Material Preparation Prepare four square brilliance cut gemstones with a side length of 2 mm and a square box-shaped metal with conical stone setting positions for the gemstones. 2. Slotting Use a wheel bur to create slots around the upper part of the stone position and a small wave bur to create slots at the four corners. 3. Trimming Slots Trim the slots with a graver to ensure they are flat for even placement of the gemstones. 4. Placing the Stones Place the four gemstones into the setting position, with each stone having two sides stuck in the slots and the other two sides held up by the metal below the girdle. 5. Setting the Stone Use a flat-headed chisel and hammer to strike the top of the metal edge in a circular pattern, causing the metal to squeeze the stone and fit it perfectly, following the semi-tension setting principle. 6. Finishing and Completing the Grid- Shaped Tension Setting Finish the grid-shaped tension setting using files, sandpaper rolls, and polishing wheels.
- 17. The Production Methodof Tension Settings Material preparation Slotting Trimming Slots Placing the Stones Changes in the slots before and after stone setting Completing the Grid-Shaped Tension Setting
- 18. The Application ofTension Settings in Jewelry Design Tension settings in jewelry design represent a modern innovation that challenges traditional methods, showcasing craftsmanship and the creative use of mechanical principles, with pioneers like Friedrich Becker and brands such as NIESSING and STEVEN KRETCHMER leading the way in this field. Tension setting brooch designed by Friedrich Becker Brooch (V&A Museum Collection) Diamond pendant (V&A Museum Collection) Tension Setting Ring Creative Tension Setting Ring Artistic Jewelry
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- 20. Overview of ChannelSetting Channel setting ring Channel setting ring (V&A Museum Collection) Channel Setting Structure Channel setting is a distinctive and challenging method where gemstones are set along a metal channel without separators, creating a dynamic and neat "ribbon" effect in jewelry design, often used in high-end pieces. Channel setting principles involve securing square or round gemstones in a strip-like arrangement within a channel or curved groove, with no metal spacers between the stones.
- 21. The Production Methodof Channel Setting Steps Description 1. Material Preparation Create a 3D model for the stone setting, accounting for a 0.15 mm deep channel and spacing, and design the stone setting position wider at the top and narrower at the bottom. 2. Slotting Cut slots in the metal piece using a wheel bur along the reserved slot lines, ensuring consistent width and depth of about 0.15 mm. 3. Testing the Stone Mount Test the slotting depth with a gemstone to ensure it is appropriate; adjust if necessary. 4. Placing the Stone Place the gems into the slots one by one. 5. Adjusting Gem Spacing Adjust the spacing between gems to be roughly even and secure one side with modeling clay. 6. Setting Stones - Point Fixation Fix the gems from one side with modeling clay and make point impacts on each gem's top to fix their positions. 7. Setting Stones - Uniform Fixation Use a flat-headed chisel with a hammer to make uniform impacts, pressing down the edges of the slot wall. 8. Finishing - Adjustment Smooth the inner side of the slot wall with a graver and level the top and side surfaces of the metal edges with a file. 9. Finishing - Polishing Polish the top edge of the slot wall to a shine using sandpaper rolls and polishing wheels. 10. Completing the Channel Setting Finalize the channel setting.
- 22. The Production Methodof Channel Setting Material Preparation Wide at the top and narrow at the bottom of the stone setting position Slotting with a wheel bur Slotting the angle position with a small ball bur Cross-section of the channel setting Gem is inserted into the slot on one side. Gem is fully inserted into the slot Placing the stone Adjusting Gem Spacing
- 23. The Production Methodof Channel Setting Gem Spacing Point Fixation Schematic Point Fixation Uniform Fixation Edge Smoothing Edge Trimming Polishing Completing the Channel Setting
- 24. The Application ofChannel Setting in Jewelry Design Channel setting, a technique with a long history in jewelry design, is particularly noted for its use in showcasing organic forms and creating a coherent band effect, especially prominent in Art Deco style jewelry and high-end pieces from brands like Van Cleef & Arpels. Crown jewel (V&A Museum Collection) Van Cleef & Arpels brooch (V&A Museum Collection) Channel setting jewelry Art Deco style jewelry Art Deco style jewelry Channel setting diamond ring (V&A Museum Collection)
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- 26. Overview of InvisibleSetting Invisible Setting Cross-section of a invisible setting gemstone slotting Cross-sectional diagram of two structural principles of invisible settings The invisible setting is a highly challenging and innovative jewelry setting technique that arranges gemstones tightly together without visible metal structures, enhancing the purity and vibrancy of the gems and representing the pinnacle of craftsmanship innovation. The Principle of the Invisible Setting: The invisible setting achieves a continuous appearance of gemstones by using slots beneath the girdle that interlock with a hidden metal structure, creating a stable and secure setting without visible metal supports.
- 27. The Production Methodof Invisible Setting Steps Description 1. Calculating Dimensions Calculate the arrangement and size of gemstones based on design shape dimensions, considering slot size and gaps, then model and cast metal parts. 2. Preparing the Metal Create a 3D model of the hidden setting stone setting and reserve positions for tracks that interlock with gemstone slots. 3. Preparing the Gemstones Craft gemstone cuts to fit the design's irregular structure and confirm the standards of the gemstone scraping slots. 4. Slotting Smooth metal corners and create slots using a flat-headed graver and wheel bur, ensuring a proper fit between gemstones and metal slots. 5. Testing the Stone Mount Insert one end of the gemstone into the slot and gently press the other end to fit, adjusting the slot depth as necessary. 6. Placing Stones Start placing stones from the middle of the structure, sliding them into place on the track one by one. 7. Setting Stones Pinch metal on both sides of each row of gems, adjust slots for the next row, and continue placing stones row by row. 8. Finishing Smooth metal edges with a file and polish with sandpaper rolls and polishing wheels. 9. Completing the Invisible Setting Apply the same principle to flat and curved surfaces to complete the invisible setting.
- 28. The Production Methodof Invisible Setting Calculating Structural Dimensions Stone setting and gemstones Metal Structure Section View Gemstone Scraping Slot Using a flat-headed graver to create a groove Using a wheel bur to create a groove Testing the Stone Mount Placing the Stones Setting Stones Finishing Flat invisible setting
- 29. The Application ofInvisible Setting in Jewelry Design Van Cleef & Arpels' invention of the invisible setting in 1929 revolutionized jewelry design by offering a seamless display of gemstones, setting a new standard for High Jewelry and exemplifying the brand's commitment to craftsmanship and innovation. Van Cleef & Arpels invisible setting jewelry (From left to right) Invisible setting jewelry
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